When architecture becomes an invitation: Kyoto
Nowhere else in the world do tradition and modernity come together as impressively as in Asian cities. This contrast is particularly evident in urban architecture. Part II of the series Architecture of (subtle) contrasts: Kyoto.
Seoul in Korea, Kyoto and Osaka in Japan all combine centuries-old culture with contemporary architecture – but in very different ways. Seoul stands for dynamism, densification and visible contrasts, while Kyoto responds to change with restraint and subtlety. How can urban spaces mediate between the past and the present? A reflection on the multi-layered connection from two different perspectives.
Kyoto stands for traditional Japan – for Buddhist temples, the Imperial Palace, tea ceremonies, geishas and centuries-old craftsmanship. At the same time, today’s cityscape is characterised by shopping arcades, streams of tourists, stylish cafés and contemporary architecture. Tradition and modernity flow into one another in the city – but differently than in Seoul, for example: more quietly, more subtly and often almost inconspicuously.
Kyoto is considered by many to be the cultural heart of Japan – a city that breathes history and is deeply rooted in its past. But here, too, the cityscape is changing: new buildings are being constructed, others are being repurposed, and entire streets are being adapted to modern usage requirements. And even though the changes in Kyoto seem more subtle than in other Asian cities and the use of space and time appears to be more conscious, the contrasts between tradition and modernity are clearly noticeable. Nevertheless, there are no breaks – rather, the contrasts seem to complement each other harmoniously. Between minimalist concrete buildings, traditional wooden houses and contemporary galleries, an urban structure is developing in which both can coexist.
Subtle contrasts
Apart from particularly striking historical buildings such as the Imperial Palace or the Golden Temple Kinkaku-ji, Kyoto’s architecture could almost be described as restrained. Many modern buildings are deliberately based on the traditional standards, materials and colours of the machiya, the traditional townhouses. Especially in centrally located neighbourhoods, there is a coexistence of old and new that appears neither staged nor breaking with tradition.
Modern public buildings such as the Garden of Fine Arts by architect Tadao Ando blend unobtrusively into their surroundings with their modern design language. By combining exposed concrete and water surfaces with copies of classical works of art, Ando translates the principles of Japanese aesthetics – reduction, light, material – into a contemporary language in the open-air art museum.
Museums such as the Kyoto Museum of Crafts and Design also combine modern exhibition concepts with traditional craft culture – in this way creating spaces that not only preserve but also develop.
(Hidden) places of tranquillity
Despite the tourism that strongly characterises Kyoto, one can still discover (often hidden) places of tranquillity – oases in the middle of the city that seem to have fallen out of time. Early in the morning or shortly before sunset, even in normally busy temple complexes, one can experience moments of unusual tranquility.
At these times, the Philosopher’s Path, a walking trail along a small canal in the north-east of the city, also looks like a film set – especially in spring when the cherry trees are in blossom. However, true places of retreat are often found where you least expect them: at inconspicuous shrines and in small parks or gardens that you come upon by chance. Their effect lies precisely in their casual presence – and in their minimalist design.
Ceramicist’s home and studio, Kawai Kanjirō, Kyoto
Places such as the former home and studio of ceramicist Kawai Kanjirō are also among the hidden treasures – tucked away in a side street, characterised by craftsmanship and timeless tranquillity. An enchanting place, but one that can only be found by those who are specifically looking for it.
Quiet counterpoints can also be found in the nearby metropolis of Osaka, which is often perceived as busier and more densely populated than Kyoto. There, architecturally significant buildings such as the Children’s Book Forest library designed by Tadao Ando or the National Museum of Art on the river island of Nakanoshima combine architecture and culture with urban life.
But you can also find quiet places such as a small chapel on the roof of a high-rise building or a small shrine in the immediate vicinity of the popular Kuromon Market – places of retreat where you would least expect to find them.
Architecture of tranquility
Many of the most impressive places in Kyoto – and also in Osaka – are effective precisely because they are unobtrusive. Because they allow openness instead of demanding attention. Whether renowned architecture or publicly accessible spaces, it is usually the atmosphere that remains in the memory. While other cities are building their future upwards, Kyoto is often developing it quietly. This is precisely why much here seems to have fallen out of time: not because things are old, but because they are allowed to exist in peace.
Here you will find Part I of the series Architecture of (subtle) contrasts: Seoul.
Picture Credits: Cityscape Kyoto © Gang Hao / Unsplash (cover image), Machiya (traditional townhouse) © YG Tian / Unsplash (1), Kyoto Prefectural Ceramic Plate Garden of Famous Paintings (Garden of Fine Arts, Kyoto) © Garden of Fine Arts (2-6), Kyoto Museum of Crafts and Design © Masuhiro Machida / Kyoto Museum of Crafts and Design (7/8), Kiyomizu-dera Tempel, Kyoto © realfish / Unsplash (9), Philosopher’s Path, Kyoto © Tina Barankay (10), Kinkaku-ji Tempel, Kyoto © Tim D / Unsplash (11), Ceramicist’s home and studioKawai Kanjirō, Kyoto © Tina Barankay (12-15), Nakanoshima Children’s Book Forest, Osaka © Tina Barankay (16), Wedding chapel Hilton Osaka © Tina Barankay (17)
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